Hidden Fact About Mera Peak

There is some information about Mera Peak, one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal, that not many people know. This is partly the fault of adventure travel companies that offer it as a trip, whose literature can range from vague to deliberately misleading. In this post I would like to clarify some of these questions.

1. Is it a walk or a climb?
Pico de Mera seen among the branches of a rhododendron during the ascent to the Zatr La
Pico de Mera seen among the branches of a rhododendron during the ascent to the Zatr La
In fact, it is an escalation, but if you do not consider yourself a climber, do not let this discourage you. It is a good mountain for hikers who want a direct introduction to mountaineering (see my related publication When does hiking become mountaineering?). Most of the climb involves a walk on a glacier that requires basic ax skills and crampons. There are many opportunities to gain dominance in these places at the bottom of the Mera Glacier. Although the mountain has a trekking peak of 6431 m that does not need anything more than this, Mera Central, the peak that most people climb, usually involves a 30-meter rise of a 60 ° snow dome with fixed rope and jumar, depending on the conditions of the snow.

2. What is a good mountain to try before trying Mera Peak?
Anyone who has climbed Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa at 5895 m, can be considered to be in a good position to have an opportunity at Mera Peak. They will have experience at high altitude and hiking conditions. A one-week course that includes an introduction to alpine mountaineering skills would also be an excellent preparation, but as I mentioned earlier, the necessary technical skills can be easily acquired in Mera itself.

3. What is the best way to Mera Peak Climbing?
Many tour operators fly to Lukla and take their customers directly through the Zatr La pass of 4610 m to Tangnag, at the foot of Mera Peak. However, this is a difficult way to start the walk. Lukla is only 2800 m altitude, and to go directly to the pass from there there is a dangerously fast altitude gain for hikers who have never been to much altitude before. To compensate for this and give them the opportunity to acclimatize, many of these operators take their clients along the busy Everest trail to Namche Bazaar. It is a missed opportunity. To the south of Lukla there is another route to Tangnag that consists in climbing the remote and beautiful valley of Hinku, passing through rhododendrons and bamboo forests, up to grassy páramos and high mountain trails. This provides a fantastic hike that for many will be as memorable as the ascent itself. You can always go back to the Zatr La after climbing to Mera.

Panorama of Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse from Central Mera
Panorama of Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse from Central Mera
4. What is the true summit, Mera Norte or Mera Central?
This is perhaps the most surprising fact: almost all tour operators do not take their clients to the true peak of Mera Peak. Almost a man will climb 6461m Mera Central, but only a stone's throw from the true summit, 6476m Mera North, almost never goes up. Why they do this is not clear. I climbed both summits in 2009 and confirmed their respective heights with my GPS. Mera North is actually less steep than Mera Central and easier to climb, and here may be the reason: it means that slopes are more prone to avalanche and, therefore, a better option for more experienced climbers who move faster and are familiar with skills like ice ax arrest. Do not expect to find large commercial operators offering Mera North raises. To do this, you will have to find a reliable trekking agency to provide the logistics and go independently.

5. Can I see Everest from the top?
Approaching the two main summits of Mera Peak: Mera Central (left, 6461m) and Mera North (right, 6476m)
Approaching the two main summits of Mera Peak: Mera Central (left, 6461m) and Mera North (right, 6476m)
Yes, in fact, on a clear day, you will see five of the six highest mountains on Earth. Cho Oyu (8201m), Lhotse (8516m), Everest (8848m) and Makalu (8463m) are very close, and when it is clear, you may be able to see Kangchenjunga (8586m) on the Indian border, far to the east. Only K2 (8611m) in distant Pakistan is beyond your vision. It is a truly memorable sight that you will never forget.

6. Who raised it first?
British army officer Jim Roberts, the grandfather of Nepal trekking, and his Sherpa Sen Tenzing were the first people to scale Mera Central during a survey of the Hinku and Hongu valleys in 1953. The honor of being the pr