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How to Sew Elastic to a Swimsuit

Written by Olive Borden

Topic: FashionPublished July 1, 2021
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The edges of most swimsuits are finished with elastic, whether they are ready-to-wear swimsuits or handmade swimsuits. The elastic is attached to the inside of your suit. Once it has been folded over, it is then topstitched. This is a simple process that you can do yourself. Stitches: You should use a wide, zig-zag stitch when sewing the elastic to your swimsuit's inside. This is the best place to use a stretch-zig-zag stitch. You can use the normal zig-zag at its widest setting if you don't have one. This will attach the elastic to your suit securely and allow it to stretch. You can either use the same wide, narrower or straight stretch stitch (also known as a lightning stitch), depending on how you want the elastic to look from the outside. Alignment: Don't sew the elastic directly to the edge of the swimsuit. Instead, you should sew the elastic 1/16th (or a little bit) from the edge. When you fold it in half, the extra fabric acts like a turn-of-the cloth and covers the elastic's edge on the inside. Don't be discouraged if you don't have perfect alignment! This swimsuit is an example of the ideal. The lining and main fabric of the swimsuit on the left were slightly off. It's fine. Although the inside will not be as stunning, it will still be strong and functional. Tension: You don't want the fabric or elastic to stretch as you sew your swimsuit. This can be achieved by keeping the elastic in tension while you sew. This may sound counterintuitive, but it is important not to stretch the elastic. Instead, hold the elastic in place as you sew. This will prevent the edges of your suit from unraveling after you have installed the elastic. For knitters, it's similar to holding your yarn while knitting. You don't hold it tight, but you keep a little tension on it. Although the difference is subtle, you can clearly see that the top sample is flat, and the bottom has some ripples. It won't show up on your body as it will stretch a lot to fit you. Convex Curves - You should always stretch your elastic when sewing around convex curves. This is usually the top of your swimsuit cup and the cheek at the bottom. However, some patterns like the Nautilus Swimsuit will give you more specific instructions on stretching elastic in certain areas. Make sure you read the instructions. The elastic should be a little stretchy so that it sticks to your body and does not sag. It is easy to miss the difference if you look at the fabric flat. But it really shows when you place the fabric around curves. You can learn the difference between stretching and putting tension on elastic by practicing sewing on fabric scraps. Depending on the fabric, stitch, feed, and tension of your swimwear sewing machine, the settings and feelings you use will vary. You might find this video helpful.

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About the Author

Olive Borden is a passionate sewist with over two decades of sewing experience, she created the blog Oliveborden.com to provide detailed information to make an informed decision when they are looking to purchase their first machine or upgrade.