"Original" Holiday Traditions

“Holiday Traditions”

It’s been awhile since I’ve posted an article in the food section. With the excitement of starting a new food business, also comes the actual “working” part. I am happy to announce that as of the 1st of the year, “Quierras Mas” and “Brother’s Blend Sausage” will be available on a commercial basis. With that said, I would like to talk about the “original” traditional holiday meal. “Wild Game”!

Many people, for various reasons, tend to steer away from eating wild game. Why, I don’t know because venison, goose, quail and wild turkey are actually “good” for you. Some people say they do not like the “gamey” taste of wild game, but to that I have to say “they haven’t had good wild game”, and that is not entirely their fault. Wild game, whether it is venison or waterfowl is not only good for you, but it is delicious as well. It is low in fat and cholestroral and high in protein. The “gamey” or “wild” taste comes from the fat that has been left on the meat. The fat and blood absorbs the flavor of what the animal has been eating, and when processed improperly will linger when cooked. It is also directly related to how well the meat was allowed to bleed. “But don’t fear! Help is here.”

First and most important, you have to let the carcass adequately bleed and there a couple of ways you can do this. You can start this process while in camp by quartering the carcass and placing it in an ice chest covered with ice for 4 to 5 days. As the ice begins to melt, the cold water will draw out the excess blood. You may have to change the water during this time. Once this part is done, you can begin trimming the pieces of meat making sure to remove any fat, silver skin or connective tissue present. If you cut through bone while processing, be sure to wash the meat before packing.

This same process is critical for migratory birds (ducks, geese and dove) because on average, they have 20 to 25% more blood then upland birds (quail and pheasant). “What do you mean they have more then upland birds?” Since migratory birds fly great distances, that’s why they’re called migratory, they need more internal blood to help control their heart rate so they don’t get tired. “When was the last time you saw a quail or pheasant fly 500 miles in one day?” “The one’s that I hunt never fly more than 500 feet at one time!” So it’s vitally important that we get as much blood out as possible. In other words, “Less blood means better taste.”

The second method of bleeding is called “Dry Aging” and has been used by higher end steak houses for years. “Dry Aging” takes times, but the process is extremely simple and is a “natural” way of breaking down the muscle tissue. It can also be done before or after freezing the meat. For this process you’ll need a tray with a rack and a refrigerator capable of maintaining at least a 40-degree temperature. Simply place the pieces of meat on the rack over the roasting pan so the blood can drain away from the meat. Place the pan unwrapped in the refrigerator and let sit for up to 8 days. For ducks it usually takes 3 to 5 days and for geese 8 to 10 days. Venison can be done the same way.

During this process of “aging”, the internal moisture in the meat starts to slowly evaporate breaking down it and becoming tender, while at the same time allowing all of the excess blood drain out. The process is complete when the color of the meat goes from a purple color to more of a veal color. Another way to tell if the process is complete is to “pinch” the meat. If it stays depressed it’s done, if not you need to give it more time. When the process is complete, you can either fix your favorite recipe, maybe even some of mine, or you can vacuum pack and freeze for future use.

Secrets of Cooking Wild Game

I have one thing to say, “You can not cook wild game like you cook domestic meat!” Once you learn this one thing, your family and friends will start eating your stuff again! Wild game is very lean, which means there is not that much fat associated with it, so you have to cook it slow. Cooking wild game with other fats such pork or beef fat, doesn’t work well with the natural flavor of the meat. But you can use them in sausages. Wild game also lends itself to the use of various spices, and these can be used in marinates.

Another aspect of wild game is parasites. Keep in mind that wild means “wild” not domesticated. Domesticated meat receives antibiotics; wild game does not, so it’s very important that you keep an eye on the internal temperature, which should be around 165 degrees when the meat is done. And remember, cook it slow. Instead of 350 degrees back it down to 225 degrees. Using a meat thermometer is the only reliable method of ensuring that game meats, birds or fish have reached a proper internal temperature during cooking. For these foods to be safe, internal temperatures must be high enough to kill any harmful microorganism, parasite or bacteria.

Now that you have attended and passed “Wild Game 101”, try the following recipe as your introduction to giving wild game a place on your dinner table.

Venison chops with Blackberry BBQ Sauce

4 venison steaks
Blackberry BBQ Sauce:
1 cup of blackberry preserves
1/2 cup of ketchup
1-1/2 tsp brown sugar
1/2 tsp of Chipotle powder
1/4 tsp mustard powder
1/2 cup of Merlot wine

Combine all ingredients in bowl for use while grilling. Place steaks on grille over low heat and baste with sauce while cooking. When steaks are done serve with baked sweet potato with garlic butter. Remaining sauce can be used for dipping.